Kiln Rebuild

I extended the roof prior to the tear down of my manabigama.

I removed the chamber and firebox of my wood-fire kiln, cleaned up the old bricks, excavated for a footing and cut the old footing for the firebox off.



I added a deep bed of gravel, a cinder-block base and expanded metal lath over that as a leveler and allows for expansion and contraction of the firebox above.



I dry fitted the fire-box and then the chamber so it fit the shelf size I already had perfectly.



I continued my courses on the firebox, including the grate (part of it removes so I can walk in to load).



I then built a catenary arch for the door. My new wood kiln has the same door width as my old manabigama, but I've doubled the chambers width in front next to the firebox, like a noribigama. This will maximize the yohen (wood-fire effects).



From there, I could now build the forms for the chamber.





I've attached the thin strips of lath to form the chamber of my wood-fire kiln.



The super duty fire bricks were cut and fit continuing up the sides.





I've reused the first manabigama's old pavers as a second layer outside of the firebrick inner layer half way up, then I used recycled IFB's and even some from a free, broken, electric kiln I got. On top of that, I added Kaowool and stiff expanded metal lath over it to keep it from getting crushed with the final capping mix, maintaining maximum insulating properties. The outer insulating coat was a mix of (parts by volume) - coarse sawdust/ board plannings ( I planned some rough sawn boards I had drying... and this was free, I had saved it from my workshop in place of store bought vermiculite)- 6 parts, masonry sand - 1 part , Hawthorn 60 ( Fireclay) - 2 parts and Portland cement - 1 part











I welded a frame around the wood-fire kiln and built a sliding door for stoking. I used barn door hangers and track, but needed to take the wheels apart. They had nylon bearings and I used metal tubing to make sleeve bearings to replace the nylon ones. There's part of a kiln lid inside of that door for light-weight insulation with a piece of stainless steel kiln covering for the cover. I also made stiff spring (used on muffler connections on trucks) tensioners on the cable cradle going around the back to allow for expansion of the bricks during firing and on the front door support system.




   




I also move the wood retaining wall over to make more room to walk around the back of the kiln for when I adjust the active dampers during the firing. I widened and relocated the stairs treads too.





I put a new stainless steel chimney (with a rain cap) on top and had my ceramic guild friends up to give it a run. All went well.

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